Good stopping is the difference between a wall that looks right and one where every joint and screw shows through the paint. It is slow work, and most problems come from rushing a coat or skipping a step. This guide walks through the stages, the finish levels, and the mistakes to avoid.
Start with the sheets, not the compound
A good finish starts when the board goes up. Before any stopping, check:
- Framing is straight and true. Stopping cannot hide a bowed stud.
- Sheets are fixed to the manufacturer’s fixing pattern, with screws just below the surface but not through the paper.
- Joints land on framing where they should, and butt joints are kept away from areas of strong side light where you can.
- Gaps between sheets are small and even. Big gaps need filling before taping.
- Corners have the right angle beads fitted straight and tight.
If the board work is poor, the stopper pays for it later. Sort it out first.
The stages of stopping
Most systems follow the same basic order. Always follow the product data sheet for drying times and which compound goes where.
- Fill and tape. Fill gaps and fixings, then bed paper tape into the joints with a base coat compound. Press out air and excess compound so the tape sits flat.
- Second coat. Once dry, apply a wider coat over joints, angles and fixings to build up and feather the edges.
- Finish coat. Apply a thin, wide finishing coat to make the joint invisible. Feather it well past the edge of the coat below.
- Sand. Lightly sand with fine paper or a sanding sponge. Take off ridges, not the paper face of the board.
- Check and touch up. Shine a light along the wall at a low angle. Mark any problem spots, touch them up, and sand again.
Let each coat dry fully. Coating over damp compound is one of the most common causes of shrinkage and cracking.
Levels of finish
Plasterboard finishes are graded by level. Agree the level with the client and painter before you price.
| Level | Where it is used |
|---|---|
| Level 4 | The usual standard for most homes, with flat or low-sheen paint and no strong side light |
| Level 5 | Gloss, semi-gloss or dark paint, or walls and ceilings hit by strong light at a low angle, such as from big windows or skylights. Usually needs a skim coat over the whole surface |
Level 5 takes much more time and material. If the plans show large glazing or downlights washing a wall, ask early, and price it in.
Sanding without damage
- Use a light touch and fine grit. Heavy sanding scuffs the paper face, and the scuffs show through paint.
- Sand in good light so you can see what you are doing.
- Wear a dust mask rated for fine dust, and protect the rest of the house. Plaster dust gets everywhere.
- Vacuum or wipe down before the painter starts.
Common faults and how to avoid them
- Joint ridging or peaking: usually from too much compound, coats not feathered wide enough, or framing movement. Feather wider and make sure framing is dry and stable.
- Popped screws: often from framing shrinking or screws driven too deep. Use the right screw pattern and dry framing.
- Cracks in corners: often from movement or thick fill. Use the right tape or bead and keep coats thin.
- Visible joints under paint: often from skipping the sealer or undercoat. Plaster and paper soak up paint differently, so seal the whole surface before topcoats.
- Bubbles under tape: not enough compound under the tape, or air left in. Bed it firmly.
Pricing stopping work
Stopping is usually priced per square metre of board, with extra for angles, curved work and higher finish levels. Remember the drying time between coats. It may mean several return visits, so allow for travel and the days the job cannot move forward. If you are not sure what to charge per hour, see how to work out your hourly charge-out rate.
Quick checklist
- Board fixed to the manufacturer’s pattern and framing straight
- Level of finish agreed and priced
- Each coat fully dry before the next
- Coats feathered wide, sanded lightly
- Checked with a low-angle light before handing over
- Surface sealed before painting
This guide is general information only. Always follow the plasterboard manufacturer’s installation and finishing instructions for the system you are using, and check any rules that apply where you work.